Firenze Day 2: Hidden Treasures - The Tip of the Iceberg

Wednesday, November 5, 2025

Today marked our first full day with the Road Scholars Hidden Treasures of Florence tour — and what a start it was. After a generous buffet breakfast at the Hotel Glance, we gathered at 11 o'clock for a sit-down lecture by Giovanni Guidetti, who introduced us to the brilliance of Michelangelo. It was also our introduction to Giovanni himself — one of our guides for the next eight days — and, as I would soon learn, a true Renaissance man in his own right. His depth of knowledge about history, art, architecture, and religion is staggering.

From there, we strolled through the lively Central Food Market of San Lorenzo — a sensory overload of colors and aromas — on our way to lunch at Konnubio Restaurant. The menu was an unexpected delight: a pea flan with onion and asparagus cream, paccheri (that's a pasta, for those like myself who are unschooled in Italian cooking) with stracciatella cheese, cherry tomatoes, and basil, and finally, a “soft” chocolate cake. And yes, there was wine.

Now, confession time: “pea flan” ranks right up there with “liver and onions” on my list of least-appealing dishes. It looked as questionable as it sounded — the color of baby-food green (I’m being polite). But here’s the twist: it was delizioso! I devoured every bite and nearly licked the plate clean. The pasta, too, was heavenly (and mercifully not green).

Lunch was my first real chance to get to know fellow travelers — to form first impressions, swap stories, brag on our children and begin the slow process of matching names to faces. I sat with cellist Lenore and her artist daughter Michelle; siblings-in-law Lynn and Henry; and solo adventurers Eleanore and Lucy. Lucy and I hit it off instantly — a connection that would grow into a travel friendship for the rest of the journey.

After lunch, we visited the Cappelle Medicee, resting place of my favorite Medicis, Lorenzo and Giuliano. Up until now, my knowledge of this illustrious family came mostly from Netflix — which, naturally, had me admiring their cheekbones and backsides as much as their political genius. Seeing their tombs in person, surrounded by marble so intricate and symbolically rich, was humbling. Every surface told a story; every sculpture seemed to breathe. And this, I realized, was just the beginning of Florence’s artistic treasures.

Our day wrapped up around 4:30 p.m., leaving me time to wander through the nearby leather stalls.

Tip: Walk along the sidewalks behind the vendor tents — you’ll dodge the hard-sell pitches and discover some wonderful hidden shops and cafés. One such gem was Nino’s, a little shop channeling its inner Costco with tasting counters — but instead of cheese cubes and crackers, there were chocolate morsels, 100-year-old balsamic vinegar, limoncello drops, and pistachio liqueur. Yes, please. I purchased some of it all.

That evening, I joined Lucy, Henry, and Lynn for a casual dinner at the Central Market before we strolled together to the Ponte Vecchio. The Arno shimmered and the Duomo glowed in the moonlight, and all I could think was — bellissimo.

Milano Day Five to Firenze Day 1: Solo to Sociable

Tuesday, November 4, 2025

I’ve become so comfortable at the Sina della Ville that I hate to leave. But alas, it’s time to move on — from Milano to Firenze … from enjoying my own company to testing my tolerance for a group of twenty strangers.

Today I boarded the train from Milano Centrale to Firenze Santa Maria Novella, retracing my steps from yesterday’s rehearsal run. I was terrified I’d miss the train (I get that way when I fly too — no idea why). But all went smoothly: I found my train, my car, and my seat without incident. The ride was wonderfully smooth, and the two-plus hours passed far too quickly. I arrived in Florence mid-afternoon, and the Hotel Glance was an easy five-minute walk from the station.

Our Road Scholar group — twenty-one travelers in all — gathered for orientation with Patricia, who will be our guide for the next eight days. It’s quite the mix of people: a family of three (parents and grown daughter); an 85-year-old cellist who once performed with the Philadelphia Symphony and her artist daughter; a veterinarian, his wife, her aunt, and her partner; an advertising man and his judge wife (yes, on-the-bench judge); a retired Purdue professor and his wife; a couple from California; a woman from New Jersey and her brother-in-law from D.C.; plus three solo travelers besides me — a retired woman (her hometown escapes me), a chemist, and a Bosch retiree. Such an opportunity for people-watching — and I don’t even like people!

After brief introductions and an overview of what’s ahead, we received our marching orders — the do’s, the don’ts, and our trusty headsets, which I suspect will become at times our best friend and our worst enemy. :)

We wrapped up the evening with a short walk to a nearby restaurant, Fuoco Matto — which translates to “Crazy Fire.” Dinner was simple and perfect: salad and pizza, both deliziosa.

Milano Day Four: Crepes, Concerts, and Contentment

Monday, November 3, 2025

What I thought would be a quiet, low-key day in Milan turned out to be one of the best yet. Determined to finally make it back to the optical store, I set out once more—only to find it closed. Again. Grrrr. So instead, I did what any good traveler does: I wandered. I meandered through Milan’s streets until I found a charming little outdoor café, where I treated myself to a coffee and a pistachio crepe. I sat back, soaked up the sunshine, and indulged in one of my favorite pastimes—people watching.

Next on the agenda was a “practice run” on the Metro, from Sina della Ville Hotel to Milano Centrale train station, just to be sure I’d know the ropes for my trip to Florence on Tuesday. It turned out to be surprisingly easy, and I was so glad to test it without luggage in tow. Now I know exactly where to go (and how many staircases await my suitcase!). Future me will be grateful.

Back in the city center, I joined a tour of the legendary Teatro alla Scala. What a magnificent theater—every detail was steeped in history and grandeur. Though I wasn’t able to see an opera, I did discover that the Milan Philharmonic Orchestra was performing that evening under a conductor now with the Pittsburgh Symphony. For just 20 euros, I managed to snag one of the best seats in the house. The performance was spectacular—a true step back into the gilded age.

Afterward, I returned to my favorite spot: the hotel bar/lounge. It’s quickly becoming my “home away from home.” The bartender may not know my name, but he certainly knows my drink. With a glass of wine in hand, I toasted to an unexpectedly wonderful day. Buona sera.