Firenze Day 2: Hidden Treasures - The Tip of the Iceberg

Wednesday, November 5, 2025

Today marked our first full day with the Road Scholars Hidden Treasures of Florence tour — and what a start it was. After a generous buffet breakfast at the Hotel Glance, we gathered at 11 o'clock for a sit-down lecture by Giovanni Guidetti, who introduced us to the brilliance of Michelangelo. It was also our introduction to Giovanni himself — one of our guides for the next eight days — and, as I would soon learn, a true Renaissance man in his own right. His depth of knowledge about history, art, architecture, and religion is staggering.

From there, we strolled through the lively Central Food Market of San Lorenzo — a sensory overload of colors and aromas — on our way to lunch at Konnubio Restaurant. The menu was an unexpected delight: a pea flan with onion and asparagus cream, paccheri (that's a pasta, for those like myself who are unschooled in Italian cooking) with stracciatella cheese, cherry tomatoes, and basil, and finally, a “soft” chocolate cake. And yes, there was wine.

Now, confession time: “pea flan” ranks right up there with “liver and onions” on my list of least-appealing dishes. It looked as questionable as it sounded — the color of baby-food green (I’m being polite). But here’s the twist: it was delizioso! I devoured every bite and nearly licked the plate clean. The pasta, too, was heavenly (and mercifully not green).

Lunch was my first real chance to get to know fellow travelers — to form first impressions, swap stories, brag on our children and begin the slow process of matching names to faces. I sat with cellist Lenore and her artist daughter Michelle; siblings-in-law Lynn and Henry; and solo adventurers Eleanore and Lucy. Lucy and I hit it off instantly — a connection that would grow into a travel friendship for the rest of the journey.

After lunch, we visited the Cappelle Medicee, resting place of my favorite Medicis, Lorenzo and Giuliano. Up until now, my knowledge of this illustrious family came mostly from Netflix — which, naturally, had me admiring their cheekbones and backsides as much as their political genius. Seeing their tombs in person, surrounded by marble so intricate and symbolically rich, was humbling. Every surface told a story; every sculpture seemed to breathe. And this, I realized, was just the beginning of Florence’s artistic treasures.

Our day wrapped up around 4:30 p.m., leaving me time to wander through the nearby leather stalls.

Tip: Walk along the sidewalks behind the vendor tents — you’ll dodge the hard-sell pitches and discover some wonderful hidden shops and cafés. One such gem was Nino’s, a little shop channeling its inner Costco with tasting counters — but instead of cheese cubes and crackers, there were chocolate morsels, 100-year-old balsamic vinegar, limoncello drops, and pistachio liqueur. Yes, please. I purchased some of it all.

That evening, I joined Lucy, Henry, and Lynn for a casual dinner at the Central Market before we strolled together to the Ponte Vecchio. The Arno shimmered and the Duomo glowed in the moonlight, and all I could think was — bellissimo.

Milano Day Five to Firenze Day 1: Solo to Sociable

Tuesday, November 4, 2025

I’ve become so comfortable at the Sina della Ville that I hate to leave. But alas, it’s time to move on — from Milano to Firenze … from enjoying my own company to testing my tolerance for a group of twenty strangers.

Today I boarded the train from Milano Centrale to Firenze Santa Maria Novella, retracing my steps from yesterday’s rehearsal run. I was terrified I’d miss the train (I get that way when I fly too — no idea why). But all went smoothly: I found my train, my car, and my seat without incident. The ride was wonderfully smooth, and the two-plus hours passed far too quickly. I arrived in Florence mid-afternoon, and the Hotel Glance was an easy five-minute walk from the station.

Our Road Scholar group — twenty-one travelers in all — gathered for orientation with Patricia, who will be our guide for the next eight days. It’s quite the mix of people: a family of three (parents and grown daughter); an 85-year-old cellist who once performed with the Philadelphia Symphony and her artist daughter; a veterinarian, his wife, her aunt, and her partner; an advertising man and his judge wife (yes, on-the-bench judge); a retired Purdue professor and his wife; a couple from California; a woman from New Jersey and her brother-in-law from D.C.; plus three solo travelers besides me — a retired woman (her hometown escapes me), a chemist, and a Bosch retiree. Such an opportunity for people-watching — and I don’t even like people!

After brief introductions and an overview of what’s ahead, we received our marching orders — the do’s, the don’ts, and our trusty headsets, which I suspect will become at times our best friend and our worst enemy. :)

We wrapped up the evening with a short walk to a nearby restaurant, Fuoco Matto — which translates to “Crazy Fire.” Dinner was simple and perfect: salad and pizza, both deliziosa.

Milano Day Four: Crepes, Concerts, and Contentment

Monday, November 3, 2025

What I thought would be a quiet, low-key day in Milan turned out to be one of the best yet. Determined to finally make it back to the optical store, I set out once more—only to find it closed. Again. Grrrr. So instead, I did what any good traveler does: I wandered. I meandered through Milan’s streets until I found a charming little outdoor café, where I treated myself to a coffee and a pistachio crepe. I sat back, soaked up the sunshine, and indulged in one of my favorite pastimes—people watching.

Next on the agenda was a “practice run” on the Metro, from Sina della Ville Hotel to Milano Centrale train station, just to be sure I’d know the ropes for my trip to Florence on Tuesday. It turned out to be surprisingly easy, and I was so glad to test it without luggage in tow. Now I know exactly where to go (and how many staircases await my suitcase!). Future me will be grateful.

Back in the city center, I joined a tour of the legendary Teatro alla Scala. What a magnificent theater—every detail was steeped in history and grandeur. Though I wasn’t able to see an opera, I did discover that the Milan Philharmonic Orchestra was performing that evening under a conductor now with the Pittsburgh Symphony. For just 20 euros, I managed to snag one of the best seats in the house. The performance was spectacular—a true step back into the gilded age.

Afterward, I returned to my favorite spot: the hotel bar/lounge. It’s quickly becoming my “home away from home.” The bartender may not know my name, but he certainly knows my drink. With a glass of wine in hand, I toasted to an unexpectedly wonderful day. Buona sera.

Milano Day Three: A Gray Day with Spires and Salad

 

Sunday, November 2, 2025

I missed breakfast today — slept straight through it. I didn’t open my eyes until nearly 10:00 a.m., and oh, did that feel good. The night was rough; I tossed and turned until around six, then finally crashed hard. Jet lag is no joke.

Eventually, I rallied and made my way to the Duomo for a self-guided tour. After circling the perimeter a few times (surely I’m not the only one who can’t immediately find the “audio guide” pickup spot?), I finally had my headset and joined the so-called “skip the line” line. Pro tip: you never truly skip the line — though paying extra does make it move a little faster.

This wasn’t much of a “tour,” but it did include access to the terraces via elevator. Worth it. Even with the rain and slick stone underfoot — the terrace is sloped, which did nothing for my nerves — the view from up high among the spires and statues was surreal. I climbed the final stairway to the very top, and let’s just say: not recommended for the faint of heart or anyone unsure on their feet. (Alex, your balance drills are paying off!)

The view itself? Honestly… underwhelming. Milan’s skyline doesn’t exactly inspire poetry, and under a gray, rainy sky, it all felt a bit muted. Still, standing amid centuries of carved marble — that part was extraordinary.

The descent was by foot — no elevator down — which deposited me right onto the main floor just as Mass was underway. The altar and its surrounding splendor were stunning; the scale of everything inside that cathedral is humbling.

I spent the afternoon wandering Milan’s streets, walking about a mile to an optical shop where I’d spotted some eyeglass cases during Saturday’s tour. Despite Google Maps’ optimism, the shop was closed. Grrr.

I strolled back to Hotel Sina De La Ville and parked myself in the bar for a while (more on that later). Dinner was simple and perfect: Caesar salad and calamari — exactly what I needed.

I managed to stay awake for the first half of the Chiefs game, which kicked off at 10:00 p.m. Italy time. I gave up before the end. They lost. Così è la vita.

Milano Day Two - Art, Faith and Flavor

Saturday, November 1, 2025

Ciao, friends!

Day two of my Milano adventure began after the best night’s sleep and a breakfast of soft scrambled eggs, the freshest green salad, a flaky croissant, slices of sweet cantaloupe, and of course, a perfectly brewed cup of Americano coffee. Just what I needed before walking a mile to meet the day’s tour group, led by the wonderful Corinna.

I had forgotten that the tour would last nearly the entire day—but it was absolutely worth it. Our small group of 10 met at the train station and began our journey with a visit to the Church of San Maurizio, once the convent of the Benedictine nuns. Inside, we were greeted by a masterpiece that is a prelude to Da Vinci’s Last Supper—a reminder of how deeply intertwined art, history, and faith are in this city.

From there, we made our way to the Sforza Castle and finally to Santa Maria delle Grazie, home to Da Vinci’s Last Supper. Walking into the room where the mural resides felt like entering sacred space. It’s incredible to see the care and reverence devoted to its preservation—painted between 1494 and 1498, yet still commanding awe centuries later. The depth of symbolism in Renaissance art always strikes me. These artists weren’t just painters; they were theologians, philosophers, and visionaries in their own right.

Fun fact: “Milano” translates to the town in the middle of the plains. Somehow, that feels exactly right.

By late afternoon, I returned to the hotel, took a quick nap, and set out to stroll through the evening streets in search of dinner. I found my way to Ambrosia, where I gobbled a plate of spaghetti and meatballs paired with a glass of wine. Delizioso.

As I walked back, I found myself reflecting on the duality of my travel loves—the quiet, remote escapes like my recent visit to Sundance Ranch in Missouri and the buzzing energy of cities like New York, Madrid, and Milan. Such opposites, yet each offers a kind of peace. I can lose—and find—myself in both.

Tomorrow promises another day steeped in faith and history. I’ll return to the Duomo; I can’t seem to get enough of these grand cathedrals.

Thanks, as always, for following along on this incredible journey.
Arrivederci until tomorrow.

My favorite pics of the day. 

Solo in Italy: First Stop, Milano

Friday, October 31, 2025

A Year of Traveling Alone

This past year, I’ve taken up solo travel. Following an unaccompanied trip to Madrid in October 2024, I discovered that I actually enjoy traveling alone.

This summer, I spent five days in New York City without a travel partner—and just like in Madrid, I learned that independent travel suits me. You can walk where you want, when you want; eat what you want, when you want. Absolute freedom.

From Madrid to Milan

So, I decided to take it a step further this fall. Now I find myself in Milan, Italy, for four days, followed by ten days in Florence. Milan is completely solo, and in Florence, I’ll be joining a group from Road Scholar—none of whom I’ve ever met.

I suspect my desire for all this “lonesome” travel could use some psychoanalysis. But that’s for another day (and probably not worth sharing anyway). For now, I’ll just share my journey with anyone curious enough to follow along.

Cultural or Spiritual 

My good friend and pastor, Ron Brooks, asked whether this trip is a spiritual or cultural quest. My quick answer was "cultural;" while that was the original intent, I think there may be more to it than that. It's likely a blend - part cultural, part spiritual ... maybe even self-discovery. I won't pretend to know the answer at this moment, but I imagine it will unfold as the journey continues. 

The Journey to Milan

I left Des Moines, Iowa, on Thursday, October 30, and arrived in Milan the following afternoon. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I think I’m getting too old for overnight flights. During the 8+ hour leg from Chicago to Milan, I finally understood why people lose their minds on airplanes. I couldn’t sleep, I grew restless after too many episodes of The Diplomat and a few rounds of Tetris, and I couldn’t even focus on my Hemingway book.

But alas, I made it—without assaulting anyone, especially the poor baby who wouldn’t stop crying. I truly felt for its exhausted parents.

First Impressions and First Mistakes

After landing, I got completely ripped off by a cab driver on the way to the city center—my own fault for being too tired to navigate public transit. I decided to forgive myself, take a nap and a shower, and then hit the streets for some exploring.

Finding dinner was more difficult than expected; most restaurants seem to offer the same fare - past, pizza, fish. Tonight, as long as there was wine, I didn't care. I ended up at a quaint spot Meat Food Grill (clever, yeah?) and ordered Caprese Ravioli. Delizioso. 

What’s Next

Tomorrow, I’ll join a guided walking tour of Milan’s city center, including a visit to see Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper. What’s next after that? Who knows—but I’m sure I’ll find plenty to fill my time.

I’m going to love this place. Buona sera! 🇮🇹